SUN SOAKED GOA BEYOND ITS GLORIOUS BEACHES LIE EVEN GREATER TREASURES.

Cocooned within its natural boundaries , the azure expanse of the Arabian Sea upon the one hand,  the leafy foothills of the Western Ghats  upon the other , Goa is scarcely to be rivalled as a holiday destination.  It is not just a matter of its glorious beaches,  for beyond the beaches you will find historic cities and picturesque villages, wildlife parks and bird sanctuaries, and a cultural heritage (and mouth-watering local cuisine)  that takes as its inspiration an enchanting blend of Indian and Portuguese traditions.  Add to this a warm welcome and a relaxed, Mediterranean way of life (where English is widely spoken ) and here is a holiday to treasure.

Early comers (and Goas).

Goa has drawn travellers for thousands of years until recently they had business not pleasure on their agenda.  The earliest were seafarers,  possibly Phoenicians.   Though now lost in the mists of time,  they were undoubtedly drawn by the riches of Goa's  spices - pepper, ginger cardamom and saffron - and the notable advantage of one of the finest harbours on India's  western flank.  Centuries later they were followed by Arab merchant ventures (who exchanged horses for spices)  later still by the  Portuguese.  Whereas previous traders had been content to merely engage in business the Portuguese,  fired by colonial ambition and a desire to dominate the Malabar coast and become masters of the spice trade,  conquered the strategic islands of IIhas and  adjacent areas.   These coastal provinces still retain the name of Old Conquests and included all the important Christian chures for which Goa is renowned.  The New Conquests cover areas subsequently conquered or ceded and include significant Hindu temples and Muslim mosques.

Portuguese influence penetrated deep into Indian fabric of Goanese culture,   partly as a result of their official colonial policy of encouraging inter-marriage .  Hence Portuguese surnames - da Silva,  Fonseca,  Fernandes - are not uncommon and the complexion of the saints and madonnas  portrayed in the centuries-old churches are several shades darker than usual!  Despite its waning imperial ambitions and the diminishing value of the spice trade,  Portugal retained Goa as a colony well after India's  independence,  resulting in it becoming something of a backwater  (a blessing in disguise for  present -day tourists) and it was not prised loose from Portugal's tenacious grip until 1961.

INDIA

Small but perfectly formed.

Although the smallest and youngest of all India's many states,  Goa is rich in attractions and history,  a sublime combination of nature and  terrain,   climate and geography.  Although some visitor prefer to travel to Goa via   the traditional steamer from Mumbai,  most fly in,  allowing them a bird's  eye view of the forested Western Ghats,  followed by contoured terraces,   verdant paddy fields,  white-washed churches,  deeply shaded  groves of coconut palms and finally

Staying power

Although renowned for its wide range of friendly  'home-grown'  pension, guest houses and decent family-run hotels where rooms next to the beach are yours for a few pounds a night,  Goa has  recently seen the introduction of a number of luxurious resort hotel complexes providing accommodation at an international level (and at commensurate  tariffs).  These include the style Cidade de Goa at Vainguinim,   four miles from Panaji, the Ramada Renaissance at Varca, the Leela Beach at Mabor and the Old Anchor at Cavelossim which now complement the established resort hotels of the Taj group's  Aguada complex at Sinquerim and the Oberoi Bogmalo.  So whatever your budget or taste,  Goa can now offer everything from the Spartan to the sumptuous.

Naturally during the peak season and especially at Christmas, New Year and Easter-prices rise accordingly, but during quieter times (especially during the monsoon from June to September)  and for long-stay guest, even the more expensive hotels offer tempting discounts.

Sporting chances

Wherever you stay the sun, sea and beaches are free (but before you make free with the sun, remember to slap on lots of high factor sun cream).

From early October to late in May, the clear blue skies and the warm waters of the Arabian sea make Goa a natural for  water -sports.  Many of the beaches offer excellent swimming (though care needs to be taken with the undertow at Sinquerim and Colva and local warnings should be heeded everywhere)  and wonderful opportunities abound for deep sea fishing,  scuba diving,  snorkelling,  sailing, parasailing,   windsurfing and jet skiing.  Equipment can usually be hired from your resort hotel or from a number of local watersports organisation,  some of whom also have qualified instructors on hand.  Note however that the height of summer (June to September) is also the monsoon season which,  though worth seeing on its own account, brings high winds and rough seas (and watersports to a halt).

From October through to May, the beaches provides an idyllic way of life where watersports can be combined with snacking on fresh  tropical fruit and delicious take-aways from local beach cafes,  having your future told by itinerant fortune tellers and astrologist or having a relaxing massage.

Whoever said life is a beach must have been thinking of Goa!

Treasures of the past

When the Portuguese under Alfonso de Albuquerque arrived in 1510 the capital city was then the second city in the empire of the Muslim ruler Yusuf Adil Shah, whose capital lay at Bijapur, far inland.

After the Portuguese conquest, Albuquerque built St Catherine,s Chapel as an act of gratitude late in 1510.  Originally of mud  and straw  it was rebuilt in stone two years later and still stands, marking the transformation of the Muslim city into the Portuguese capital of Goa Velha (Old Goq).

As the new colonial power became more firmly established,  so the forces of Catholic zeal arrived in the shape of  whom St Francis Xavier is probably the most famous .  Apart from bringing the terrors of the Inquisition, they created a landscape of monumental Baroque churches, chapels and convents,  mostly built of local red laterite which,  being a form of clay, is liable (unless carefully maintained ) to crumble under the effects of intense heat and the annual monsoon.

As is all too evident, a number of building have already suffered this fate.   However more than enough have   survived to show how Goa Velha would have appeared in the late 16th Century when it was a city of noble plazas,  leafy parks,  ornate fountains elegant villas and magnificent churches.

Known as Goa Dourada (Goa the Golden), it was the toast of Lisbon and boasted a population larger than the London or Paris of the day.

Ahost of churches still cluster on Holy Hill including the restored Royal Chapel of St Anthony and the Convent of St Monica, but Goa Velha's two great set-pieces are the Basilica de Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral. The first is a World Heritage site, presenting a splendidly adorned facade although inside all is restrained,   except for the ornate marble the exuberant gift of Cosimo 111,one of the  last of the Medicis.  Rarely on view, the though less of them may be imagined for the body lacks two toes,  parts of an arm  (packed off to Rome in 1615)  and a  section of the right hand  (presented in Japan in 1619).   Sixty years in building,  the Se Cathedral is the largest church in Goa and -it is said- the largest in all Asia.  Its single tower (the other collapsed in 1776)   house the great 17th century Golden Bell and offers superb views from the topmost storey.  Around it lie the Palace of the Inquisition and the Archaeological Museum with the old palace of Muslim times.   Deep in the surrounding countryside and off the usual tourist tracks,  history lies slumbering.  South and east of Goa Velha,  Ponda has the 16th century Safa Mosque and a number of Hindu temples some of which show traces of European influence. And along the coast from Tiracol in the north to Cabo de Rama in the south can be found the forts built by the Portuguese to guard their maritime trade routes.  Although some are gently crumbling,  other-such as Aguada-have a lease of life accommodating luxury hotel complexes.

Pleasures of the present

Wherever you are in Goa,  food is one of its greatest pleasures,  a feast for the eyes as much as the palate.  Here mangoes thrive with no less than three varieties-Afonsa,  Monserrrate, Malcurada-as  well as papayas,   chickoos,  guavas,  custard apples,  jackfruits,  breadfruit and cashews.  An abundance of fresh seafood comes straight from the fishermen,   lobster,  kingprawn,  oysters and mackerel,  plus the rich fusion   of Mediterranean,  Hindu and Muslim culinary traditions has produced some memorable specialities.  Try apa de camaroa,  a piquant prawn pie,  stuffed crabs,  the renowned pork vindaloo and chourisso sausage (Goa is about the only   place in India with pork on the menu)  and chicken xacutti prepared with fresh coconut.  Puddings are for those with the sweetest of teeth.  Typical is bebinca,  a rich coconut milk,  egg-yolk and jaggery  (dark palm sugar)    many-layered delicacy.  Excellent Indian lager beers are readily available and you may care to try coconut or cashew-nut feni; served with salt and lime juice it is Goa's riposte to Mexico's tequila and not  to be taken lightly.   More conservative tastes may be pleasantly surprised by the local port and everybody enjoys the International Food Festival which Goa hosts every December. 

All the best festivals.

Nowhere is the harmony of Hindu and Christian traditions more evident than in the festivals,  Occurring throughout the year,  the major events-Ganesh Chaturthi,   Diwali (celebrating the end of the monsoon),  Christmas and Easter-are celebrated by all,  regardless of race or religion.  Other popular events from the Christian calendar include the Feast of the Three Kings early in January,  the Procession of All Saints during Lent in Goa Velha,  and the Feast of St John in June (celebrating the arrival of the monsoon).   In addition there is a continuous pageant of colourful yatras (Hindu religious procession)  throughout  the year.   These include major festivals such as Shigomotsav for the arrival of spring (in March)  and another one celebrating the birth of Lord Krishna (in late August).   There is also the colourful Goa  Carnival that takes place in February,  which is an absolute must for all revellers.

Going wild 

As one would expect of India's smallest state,  Goa's  three wildlife parks possess nothing like the dimension of the country's  largest sanctuaries.   Nevertheless their more intimate scale can be no less rewarding and they all lie within easy reach of the coast.   The smallest is Bondla,  tucked in the foothills of the Western Ghats,  where you can see sambar deer and wild boar.   Its near neighbour is the Bhagwan Mahaveer reserve,  containing an outstanding herd of Indian bison (gaurs),  elephants,  deer,  the occasional leopard and a wealth of bird life.   Birds from the main attraction at Carambolim,   just 12km  from  Goa Velha.  Here the wetlands-part lake,  part marshland-provide a haven for over 120 species of birds,  many of them migratory.

Getting there.

Charter flights now depart from Gatwick and Manchester direct to Goa,  but many visitors fly to Mumbai  (Bombay)  with one of the major international airlines-   Air India has 12 flights a week from London Heathrow - and then take Indian Airlines,  India's major domestic carrier,   for the short 50 minute hop by Airbus  to Dabolim airport.  There are some ten flights a day via local airlines from Mumbai  (Bombay)  to Dabolim,  which is also well connected to Delhi,  Cochin,  Bangalore  and Mudras.  Vistiors can also reach Goa  from Mumbai  (Bombay)  via rail connection to  Madgaon and an excellent new catamaran services operates outside the monsoon season.  Getting around Goa is best done by taxi,  but for the beach hopping hire a bicycle or motorcycle.

Being there. 

Good weather sometimes deserts the beaches during May to September when the south-west monsoon brings wind and rain but no great drop in temperature.  The rest of the year is gorgeous,  with blue skies and settled sunshine.  Temperatures are as follows:  summer,  maximum 33C minimum 26C and in winter, maximum 31C minimum 20C.  Whatever the season,   Goa charms,  and India-as always- weaves her magic.

Beaches galore. 

Goa's beaches are its crowning glory.  In reality the coastline is one long,   palm-fringed delight ,  the powdery sands-usually silver,  occasionally dusted golden -only interrupted from time by inlets,  estuaries or headlands.   Whether secluded and peaceful or broad and lively,  they exist for all to enjoy fro none are private.  In general the further  you find yourself from the capital -Panaji- the quieter the beach.  Querim in the far north is deserted,   Arambol (also know as Harmal)  and Morgim similarly tranquil.  Heading south across the Chapora River brings you to Vagator and beaches that get more active and popular - pretty,  friendly Anjuna,  Baga and Calangute with their myriad hotels,  shops,  restaurants and beach-shack cafes,  Candolim and splendid,   palm-fringed Sinquerim guarded by the ramparts of Fort Aguada.  Close to Panaji Dona Paula is tucked away on the Zuari estuary,  shaded by palms and casuarina groves,  and Vainguinim is another  secluded resort.

The  southern beaches begin with Bogmalo,  conveniently close to the airport   at Dabolim,  though this may not appeal to everybody - and continue with Majorda's broad vistas,  Colva's local colour,  tranquil Benaulim and the relatively unspoilt beaches of Varca,  Cavelossim  and Betul.  Finally,   far to the south is Palolem,  a hidden treasure of a beach.